Archive for October, 2009
End Times
Today over Sydney clouds have gathered, dropping the temperature and bathing the city in an grey glare. They spit light rain down on my shoulders as I walk the town I love. It is strange being back in Australia. The accents are jarring. I feel more comfortable listening to the Canadian across from me than the group of Australians behind me. I get frustrated at the jumbled and crowded sidewalks where no-one seems to know how to walk efficiently. I find it weird to pay the price on the menu, rather than expecting tax or tip.
The town is familiar, sights and sounds raising nostalgia, not just from 10 months ago when I started my Odyssey, but from years ago when I lived here. The roads I used to walk, the bars I used to drink at, the stores I used to frequent all remind me of good times, and the memories wrap me like a warm blanket.
It was just last week that I felt a horrible apprehension about coming home. I feared the large debt that awaits me and the thought of work, but today I feel excited and elated. In a few hours I should be stepping foot into Perth Airport and heading back to Glen Forrest. I am looking forward to seeing my family again, and to see my friends. I cant wait to see my dogs, my car, and my guitar. I want to rock out on my xbox, drop the burden of my backpack from my shoulders and sleep in my own bed.
Soon to bed, soon, but just one more bit of travel left.
USS Arizona
One of the more sobering experiences I’ve had in Hawaii (apart from losing my thongs) was visiting the USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbour.
The memorial, situated above the rusting body of the Arizona stands as a headstone to the shipwreck and the 1,177 sailors that were killed on her during the December 7th 1941 surprise attack by Japanese forces on the US forces stationed here in Oahu. Many of the men killed that day still lay inside the Arizona, and the site is an active military cemetery.
The white platform built above the site offers visitors a place to remember the sailors killed that day and to look over the hull of the Arizona that lays just below the surface. The prominent gun turret that rises above the surface and the hatches nearby leak “the tears of Arizona”, oil that still seeps from the hold. It pools below the monument, seeping out from the wreck and staining the posts.
The memorial was very interesting to see, and really does make one think about not only the men killed on the boat that day, but the fact that on that day the lives of an entire nation of people changed with the US entering the war. I could not help but wonder how I would feel if I was the radar operator that day who dismissed the incoming blips as “nothing to worry about”.
This is my last post from the US, because I right now I am sitting looking over Honolulu airport, waiting for my boarding call. I’ll be travelling into the future by crossing the International Date Line soon and landing in Sydney before heading to Perth. Hawaii has been amazing and a fitting end to a pretty amazing adventure. I’m sure there will be a couple more debriefing posts from Sydney and Perth but, for now at least, I say farewell and thank you to the United States.
Waimea Bay
Hawaii has been one long beach session. All around the island are beautiful tropical beaches. One of the most famous on the North Shore is Waimea Bay. It is well known for it’s huge waves and hosts the Quicksilver Big Wave Invitational.
It is a beautiful beach and floating out on the swell really is eye opening. The season is just starting for the big waves so what I experienced there that day are considered “small”. The swell was still bigger than anything I had ever seen before.
Leading into the bay is a small creek which runs through the Waimea Falls National Park. The park is filled with historical information on how the islanders used to cultivate food and live in the area and it has a wide range of plant life and over grown jungle. About a mile and a half into the valley you come to the Waimea Falls. While it’s not recommended that one swims in the falls, I did anyway and it was great.
A bit south of Waimea Bay is a beach which is a favourite place for turtles to hang out. I have never been that close to such an awesome creature. There was something very relaxing and peaceful about sitting on the beach surrounded by such wise creatures.
The North Shore really is an amazing place. If you ever get a chance to go there hit up Masumoto Shave Ice. Great Stuff.
A View from the Top
A few days ago I ventured to the east of Oahu and went on a little hike up Diamond Head Crater.
The crater is actually the cone formed from a volcanic eruption. Seen from Waikiki beach Diamond Head looks like a mountain. It is not until you enter the cone through a tunnel that you realise the actual shape of the land formation. Inside the bowl it is dusty and dry and the fairly easy walk up the inside of the cone to the lookout on the lip feels much more difficult in the heat.
Reaching the top rewards hikers with a ridiculously beautiful view of Oahu. While the summit is only 230 or so meters to the west you can see Waikiki and Honolulu, to the east the coast of Oahu with it’s bays and beaches. To the south the great expanse of the Pacific seems to disappear forever over the horizon. Looking back over the crater facing north gives you a good idea of just how big the volcano must have been.
After sweaty and hot climb back down from the lookout I headed to Hanauma Bay. This bay is a Nature Preserve giving visitors access to some spectacular coral formations. While a little costly (an entrance fee of $7.50 is required if you don’t live in Hawaii) a visit to the bay is a must. The beautiful sheltered bay is like paradise and snorkelling in the bay is easy, safe and the sea life is amazing. I ended up going twice to Hanauma Bay I enjoyed it that much.
The end of my adventure is fast approaching, something that is filling me with a huge level of apprehension. I am not looking forward to leaving my travelling life and going home to debts and work but I’ll enjoy my last few days while I can.
Chinese Cemetery
Sometimes my one travel rule of “Never Refuse an Invitation” produces some great experiences. An invitation to a BBQ from Rob, one of the people I have met at the hostel, was one of these.
Rocking up to the Chinese Cemetery caretakers house in Manoa I had no idea what to expect. I did not know anyone except Rob and his friend Alessa, and Rob didn’t know anyone except some guy John. We had no idea of the occasion and with great trepidation we moved into the party. Taking a look around, and deciding I really needed a drink to deal with the situation we setup shop and went about making a rum and fruit punch, underneath a projector running family photos. In short time we found out it was a childs 1st birthday party, which made things even more awkward but it wasn’t long before we had fit comfortably into the party and became famous for our punch.
It was strange having such a lively party against the backdrop of the cemetery. The Chinese Cemetery in Manoa is the largest and oldest of its kind in Hawaii. It’s position in the valley is amazing with mountains rising up on three sides and a view right out past Waikiki and out to the ocean.
The Party was rocking, with around 100 people milling around and more food than I care to mention. We stayed for a few hours, but unfortunately left before the firetwirlers and musicians were due to arrive. All in all a fantastic day out of nowhere.
Waikiki Beach
Ah Oahu, you are beautiful. Touristy, but beautiful. Dominated by Waikiki Beach the area is teeming with life. Waikiki means Spouting Fresh Waters in Hawaiian and at “The grove” you can see a recreation of the area as it would have been when the Hawaiian royalty would have seen it when they held the area sacred.
Today the grove is surrounded by Oahu’s biggest and most luxurious hotels, all suprisingly very open and welcoming to everyone. All day long you’ll find people from town mixing with those using the hotels, just wandering through to the beach or eating and drinking at the hotel bars and restaraunts.
Waikiki beach is massive, and curves in a cresent along the south of the Island. To the east is Diamond Head, which I hope to climb soon.
Emmett Broaddus
Emmett was 21. He was from California. We met in the HI Vancouver. He was as he would like to say “like a cookie man, hard on the outside, soft in the middle…”. We partied hard, played harmonica and drums during a 4am street riot: one of the fondest memories of my trip. We travelled to Victoria, drank beers at Big Bad John’s and tried to pick up ladies always failing with a smile on our faces. We swam in frigid waters and he did the best Steve Irwin impression I have ever seen. We talked, sharing a love of music and travel. We travelled together from Victoria to Seattle on a boat and then met up again in San Fran were we drank and talked about our future travels and Emmetts plans to visit me in Australia. I said ’so long’ to Emmett in San Francisco, not farewell. He was funny, intelligent and profound. He was talented and energetic, open and compassionate. Most importantly he was my friend.
On Monday on his way to school Emmett was killed in a car accident. I’ll never get to introduce him to the ladies of Australia, or return the hospitality he showed me from the moment I met. The world is missing one magical person and is a little darker because of it. I hope that I can keep his memory alive by living my life as he would, always happy, always open and always with a smile on my face.
So long Emmett, I hope that where ever you are now the women are gorgeous and the beers cold.
Aloha
I arrived in Hawaii, the United States only Island state on Monday. Hawaii is the 50th State, making it the newest of all the US states, with it being added to the union in just 1959.
The hostel I am staying at is on the Southern side of the main island of Ohau in Waikiki. It is very touristy and built up, but yesterday Dustin a dentist from Texas offered us a lift in his car to go check out the North Shore.
The drive took around an hour, through a surprising amount of traffic. Following the highway up through the middle of the island we headed North west to meet the shore. Along the North Shore are some of Hawaii’s best and less populated beaches. While jumping from beach to beach we saw basking turtles and swam in beautiful coves. We floated in the deep clear water of a cove that fed an inlet to a national park and we watched the sunset at Sunset Beach. On the way home we followed the coast east around the Island.
The islands volcanic nature of Hawaii makes for some pretty breathtaking scenery. Huge mountains rising immense and sudden from the edge of the water. Absolutely spectacular.