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Vancouver
I hit Vancouver a little over a week ago. To be honest my time there was pretty much a blur. While I had only one very important thing to do in Vancouver I had no real plans of what to see or do in the City.
My first night there saw me join a club crawl which took in only two clubs, far from our hostel but proved to be fun none the less. It did give me a chance to meet some cool people, most of whom were Australian, much to my disappointment, but that’s Vancouver for you. It is Aussie central.
Vancouver is a pretty large city, with around 3 million people living in it and its surrounds. It is quite a nicely laid out city, with a modern feel. At the moment though the city is heaving under the weight of the upcoming 2010 Winter Olympics. It seems that every inch of the city is undergoing some form of renovation. New train lines have opened expanding the city and linking suburbs. Roads are torn up, footpaths littered with traffic cones and building supplies. All the work made it hard to enjoy the city on its merits.
Most of my days were spent wandering the city centre, meaning I unfortunately didn’t get to see some of the famous parks that surround the city. I did manage to guide a pub crawl though on my last night in town when the hostels usual guide called in late. I had a great time leading the group, as I had been in Montreal and was soon relieved of the duty anyways when the guide finally showed her face.
Vancouver didn’t really grab me all that much, but I must admit I was in a very weird mood coming off the great experience of Montreal. I am not one to write it off so early, and I think I will have to visit again, maybe after the Olympics.
Montreal Centrale
I’ve mentioned my favourite hostel Montreal Centrale in my post about Montreal itself, but I have decided it deserved a special mention. Montreal Centrale was, by far and away, the best hostel I have stayed in in the Northern Hemisphere. During my time there (around 2 weeks in total) I met fantastic people, formed strong friendships, and had a great time. I helped in the Bar, organised pub crawls, cooked, moved furniture, lounged on couches and relaxed in the back courtyard.
Their setup is fantastic. The place used to be a hotel catering for “dubious business types” and has recently changed tack to catering for travellers and backpackers and the budget conscious. This is great because the hostel still has great hotel throwbacks, like clean rooms with TV’s and DVD players and ensuites in each, clean fresh linen, a pile of towels (hand, face, body) waiting for you on your bed at check in, great service and a pleasant atmosphere. The staff are very friendly always willing to come for a drink and entertain the clients.
I can’t thank Francisco, Joshue, Anna, Ben and the rest of the crew enough. If it weren’t for their welcoming smiles and open arms this hostel would have faded into my memories like so many others before it. They have created an environment that is extremely difficult NOT to make friends and meet people in and that is perhaps the most important part of any hostel experience. I met some people I wont ever forget here, and I owe a lot to the staff for enabling me to do so. Should I ever return to Montreal, which I definitely hope I do, Montreal Centrale will be my residence of choice.
If you’re wondering the significance of the image above, this awesome piece of art is what I marvelled at each morning across the road from the entrance of the hostel. Montreal is full of awesome graffiti.
Cirque du Soleil
Cirque du Soleil is one of those things I’ve just never really “got”. People rave about this thing, like it is some magical experience blinding to all shows that went before and even those yet to be. It has been placed on a pedestal so high that not even my expectations could reach it. To go along with that, the prices for the shows are ridiculous, adding to my complete lack of enthusiasm to see what all the fuss is about. I can’t move fast enough to the remote when ever I see another Cirque Du Soleil special on TV, scrambling like a soldier diving for cover from a nearby grenade.
When I found out that during the summer festival in Quebec Cirque Du Soleil would be performing for free beneath the underpass in downtown I figured: what the hell, I’ll check it out. And you know what? Colour me impressed, but in muted tones… maybe even with water based paint so I can clean up quickly once the novelty has worn off.
Basically I found the show to be street performers with a massive costume budget. The acrobatics and juggling and dancing was impressive, but nothing I really hadn’t seen a million times around the world, done by crazy hippies or poor travellers to earn a little cash by entertaining tourists. This is over simplifying a little. There were moments I thought: wow, but I think they were massively outweighed by the times I thought: meh.
I loved the costumes, and the music was phenomenal. I am just glad it cost me zero dollars. The show was well worth that price. More than worth it. Sorry to all you Cirque Du Soleil fans out there if you’re offended by my stance. All I know is I’ve finally seen it so you can all stop telling me how I should really see Cirque Du Soleil, but I probably wont see it again.
Quebec
Prague was in my opinion the most beautiful city in Europe. It was like a fairy tale and I didn’t think I would find a city that could top it in the beauty stakes. That was until I found Quebec.
Quebec (or Quebec City), the capital of the Quebec Province is quite a small town with a population of around a million. Its’ skyline dominated by the Old Town built high on the hill in a location advantageous to defence. It is a walled city, in fact the only walled city north of Mexico on this continent. Quebec is clean, beautiful and interesting. While it lacks the nightlife of say Montreal, what little it does have is pretty rocking.
I had a great time walking all over Quebec. I spent the majority of my time in the Old Town, or down at the port. I rested my weary feet in fountains and bathed myself in the blazing sun. At night I couldn’t stop staring at the buildings and streets that glowed with lighting that seemed straight out of a movie.
At the moment the city is hosting it’s Summer Festival with Cirque de Soleil for free almost every night and the “Moulin a Image” a huge multimedia presentation across a ridonkulously big screen (actually the side of a massive silo). Thousands of people flood into the city each night to see either of these two spectacles and to eat at the hundreds of restaurants and cafes that lie scattered through the old town.
On top of all this the Hostel I stayed in, located in downtown was very cool. Totally relaxed, open and friendly with our hosts Pierre and Skippy, the little Jack Russell that would come in and sticky beak in on the rooms. It was a small hostel though, and the 2 toilets and showers sometimes struggled to cope with the demand. I am just glad that I am an early riser and beat the rush.
I only had 3 days in Quebec and there were a few things I would have liked to see that I missed out on. I could have spent a long time just soaking up the atmosphere. Oh well, just means I will have to go back.
Paris but not…
Montreal is a weird little place. Well, little isn’t really the right word. The city is the jewel in French Canadia’s Crown. With a population of around 1.6 million in the city and 3.6 in the ‘burbs Montreal is the second largest French speaking city in the world. It feels Metropolitan. Walking around the Latin Quarter, visiting the many bars and restaurants along St. Denis reminds me of Paris. In fact the vibe of the City is very much Paris, while still having enough of its own character to set itself apart from its big sister.
While in Montreal I have walked Mont Royale in the pouring rain, been out to a few bars and restaurants, played Scrabble with new friends in my very, very awesome hostel, rode the very cool Bixi bikes all over town and checked out the Biodome. I saw live music in pubs and clubs, and enjoyed the Franco Folies Festival with some friends from Toronto.
In a strange mental snap I spent a day looking for 3/4 length cargo pants in downtown Montreal. Finding this one article of clothing has become a bit of an obsession for me. My search has become a crazed compulsion, leading me into every store I can find to search rows and rows of clothes for shorts that aren’t quite pants and pants that aren’t quite shorts. How hard can they be to find really? Very hard evidently. I need to find a Kathmandu or Patagonia or some other camping goods store, something that seems pretty much non existent here. Maybe in Vancouver. Damn you 3/4 length cargos, release me from this strange neurosis.
I’ve had an awesome time in Montreal. It has been much friendlier and more interesting than Toronto. I will be back here again in about a week to catch my flight to Vancouver so I think I’ll be visiting the Blues Bar again, just for some quiet drinks and some live music. Great stuff.
Toronto
Toronto, not high on my list of “must sees” to begin with had quite a hard act to follow in New York. The city is the biggest in Canada with a population of around 8 million (depending on who you talk to), but it seemed empty and unsure of itself.
The tower that looms over the skyline is an example of this insecurity. It was built to show the world the power of Canadian industry and woah, was it mighty. Well… it was. It has since been surpassed in height and in the next few years there are several more buildings on their way to knock it further down the ladder. The Toronto feels a little like they are not accepting the fact that things are just moving forward, a constant progression that they are being swept along with rather than driving.
Don’t get me wrong, the people of Toronto aren’t backwards and the city is fairly modern but something just feels off. I feel I needed maybe more time and more local help to come to understand the importance and purpose of this city. Maybe it is that my impressions of Toronto were coloured slightly by the 35 day garbage strike that covered the city in a pall of rancid stink and litter. Or maybe even the unusual vibe of the hostel where a large portion of the residents were long-termers who’s attitudes formed a kind of “us and them” segregation that was hard to break the barriers of.
I did manage to get out and see a bit of the city, but it held no real wow moments, other than acting as a platform for me to launch into Niagara Falls. I went for a few beers at The Horseshoe, out clubbing with some other backpackers but was well and truly over it an hour in. I had a quiet night in watching movies and then quite the opposite drinking vodka with danes and germans till the wee hours of another night. Oh, and in what seems to be a staple of his holiday, I got completely and utterly drenched by a massive storm that swept over the city while I was out wandering. The skies opened up so much that within minutes of the torrential rain starting not a single inch of me was dry. I did provide a little entertainment to a collection of gym goers who had taken shelter in their lobby when I came in asking for a plastic bag to put all my electronic equipment in, dripping bucket loads of water on their floor and leaving bare foot prints leading out from their little refuge and into the dark beyond their doors. Some people look at me strangely when they see me walking barefoot through the city, but I believe feeling the ground beneath the hardened soles of my feet helps me to really connect with a place, to make it feel real. I don’t think there is a single city I have visited where I didn’t spend at least a day barefoot.
I said goodbye to Toronto with no real sense of dolefulness after a night of chatting with some frenchies until 5am. In fact I am sitting on my bus to Montreal right this moment wrapped in excitement in seeing somewhere new. I’ll also be meeting up with some of the nicer people I met at the hostel who will be making their way up to Montreal in the coming days. I hope to have a quiver of local knowledge to deliver when they come a-knocking.
Niagara Falls
Toronto has given me some fantastic weather, and the day that I jumped on the tour bus to Niagara Falls proved to be one of the best of the week. The blue skies, warm sun and cool breeze providing a backdrop to one of natures greatest attractions.
Waking early and scoffing down some pancakes I got amped for the trip. In the middle of a coffee I met Mark, the tour guide from Salty Bear Tours who rounded up 14 of us and piled us into a van.
It’s around a two hour drive around the lake to the Niagara region, during which Mark regaled us with stories of Canada, took questions and in general entertained us to our first stop : a winery.
As I had quite a big night just before the tour I wasn’t entirely keen on a wine tasting, but I did get the opportunity to try “Ice Wine” something we don’t get in Australia. It was extremely sweet, so not something I would normally enjoy, but a small taste was fine.
Moving on we headed into Niagara on the Lake for lunch and to stretch our legs. This town was pretty cool, nicely presented and utterly touristy. I grabbed some chicken tenders from the supermarket and sat in the park enjoying the sunshine.
At this point we were itching to see the falls, but Mark had a couple more spots to show us. First a lookout onto Niagara River, and then to the Whirlpool which was very impressive and BEGGED to be swum in.
Finally we hit Niagara Falls. I have to say I was amazed. While the falls themselves aren’t really that high only falling around 50 or so metres they throw around 168,000 cubic meters of water over their edge each every minute. The falls are actually made up of two separate major falls, the American Falls and the Horseshoe Falls but the majority of the water goes over the Horseshoe Falls. Probably the most striking thing for me though was the sound. It wasn’t nearly as loud as I thought, even when practically underneath the falls on the “Maid of the Mist”.
“Maid of the Mist” is a tour which travels up the river, past the American Falls and then right up under the Horseshoe Falls. Battling with our ponchos was fun enough but looking up and seeing yourself surrounded by the falls was too much for words. I managed to grab a couple of shots without my camera busting due to water damage. Best 14 bucks I have ever spent.
I could have spent all day at the falls, but the tour was coming to a close. With huge smiles on our faces we headed back to the hostel. I had a great time that day, made new friends and got some great photos. I also marked off another of my “tourist” jobs for my adventure. “Niagara Falls” has a massive tick in my book.
Oh, see if you can spot the “No Smoking” sign under the waterfall. Classic comedy.
CN Tower
I’ve always wondered what in the human condition triggers this desire to “stand on the shoulders of giants”. To get up high, find a new perspective. It seems a universal thing. All over the world there are observation towers in skyscrapers, lookout points from mountains. We seek grand views. Do people yearn to rise above their lot, or do they wish to witness their insignificance first hand? I can not tell. One thing I know is, the CN Tower, once the tallest free standing structure on land in the world (now only bested by the still incomplete Burj Dubai), is a magnet for people seeking to look down on the world that they occupy.
Construction of the Tower was completed in 1976. The tower rises 553.33 meters over the Toronto Skyline and is quite easy to see on the horizon from Niagara nearly 200km’s away. The tower features two main observation decks, a glass floor, a restaurant and other touristy attractions. I spent around 2 hours up the tower, most of which was spent waiting in line. Looking out over the land at such a great height is pretty amazing. Watching firetrucks the size of my thumb nail scoot around the city was cool. The view does provide a change in perspective. The CN Tower is also probably the last “big” thing I will climb on my adventure, which is rapidly approaching its end, both in time left and amount of funds. *gulp*
I Heart NY
Sitting on my AMTrack train at Penn Station at 7.15 in the morning I felt an immense sense of melancholy as my mind rolled through the events of the last 8 days in New York. The city has seduced me, taken my soul while I was off guard and sliced off a piece. With each blast of the train’s horn it seemed to spread that piece over the state, echoing between the buildings, down alleys, through the subway, bars, restaurants and parks. I feel like I have left something important in New York and I need to go back and find it. A yearning, like that for a lost love boils in my chest. I can still hear that horn, signaling not only my departure from the city but my arrival.
One part of me wants to recount every beautiful and amazing waking moment that I spent in New York. Wants to share my experience and shake any one willing to listen until they open their eyes and see what I have seen. But then I think that doing so will dilute this warm elixir of NYC I have bottled in me. It is mine and I am not willing to share it. It feels selfish. I guess it is something you’ll just have to experience for yourself.
New York Yankees
New York has just been one life experience after another and with last night I struck off yet another goal: watch a Yankee’s game at Yankee stadium.
I am not much of a sports fan. I do watch a bit here and there, but I find it hard to enjoy going to watch say, the footy. Going to the baseball however was a whole different experience. The game moves suprisingly fast, and almost constantly there is crowd involvement with quizzes, sing / clap along’s, mexican waves and other general shenanigans.
The game I watched was Yankee’s v. Oakland Athletics, and while it was a bit of a white wash towards the end in favour of NY it was still an enjoyable watch. I saw a couple of good double plays and a whopping home run from Posada.
The ground is amazing. Situated in the Bronx the new Yankee Stadium is MA-HOOS-SIVE with a capacity of around 53,000. It is well organised and laid out, with HD screens everywhere, heaps of kiosks and views are great from pretty much anywhere, including the nosebleeds where I managed to score a seat. Getting in and out of the ground took no time at all, and the Subway at 161st street is right at the gates.
Overall the atmosphere is what made the night. The crowd was energetic and positive. Music got people up and dancing between plays and one highlight was when YMCA came blasting over the PA and even the ground crew got involved with the dance. Funniest stuff I have seen in a while. When I look at the photos I still can’t believe I am doing this, it seems unreal.